For those unfamiliar with it, the province of Trento may seem much larger than you might have imagined, and indeed it is a mountainous region, with the distances between the Dolomite peaks magnified by the effect of the various ascents and descents. The most important thing to consider, despite this, is just how magnificent this area is: its beauty surpasses the time needed to be spent travelling round it, as the landscape reveals incredible vistas at every curve and turn. In exactly the same way as your emotions are transfixed, you will be entreated to the local flavours of a land that are characteristic of the care and attention bestowed upon it by its inhabitants and traditions. Navigating your way around Trentino is further enhanced by the excellent road systems, railway network and cycling paths – we guarantee that after spending a few days in the historical residences between the Adige Valley and the nearby valleys, your visit will be beautifully imprinted upon your memory, forever.
So where to start? It makes perfect sense for this itinerary to begin and end in Trento, as it is not only the main city and administrative centre, but also a hub from which you can easily access all the main attractions in one day. Picture arriving in Trento on one of the many high-speed trains now connecting it with cities like Rome, Florence, Bologna and Verona. Once you have arrived, there are various options for moving around the surrounding areas: you could choose to rent a car or travel by pedal or electric bicycle, or even take advantage of the regional trains if you want to avoid stress and unnecessary delays. But first and foremost, Trento awaits you, starting with its most important crowd puller, the majestic Castello di Buonconsiglio, located just a short distance from the railway station. The historical significance of this castle spans centuries, and it was deemed an indispensable site in terms of world events, as it was here that the famous ‘Concilio del Trento’ assembly took place, during which the tenets of the Counter-Reformation were issued and significantly shaped the future of Catholic doctrine and practice. Although a relatively small city, Trento has indeed played a pivotal role in history, as it has served as an essential transit point between Northern and Southern Europe. Traces of its heritage from the Roman Empire are evident not only in its name, which comes from the Latin ‘Tridentum’, but also in the urban layout of its ancient centre. You should aim to spend at least one full day in Trento to be able to do justice to its many landmarks, including the Cathedral Square with Neptune’s Fountain, the Cathedral of San Vigilio and the spectacular, ornately decorated façades of Palazzo Cazuffi and Palazzo Rella. Palazzo Pretorio houses the Tridentine Diocesan Museum and the Civic Tower, which was initially used as a prison and later became a site for celebrations during festivals or when notable figures came to visit, and is memorable for its artillery salutes and fireworks. The MUSE Museum of Science, roughly a kilometre from the heart of the city, is also well worth a visit. Designed by Renzo Piano, it offers a fascinating multi-level journey from the ‘Tropical Greenhouse’ to fossil exhibits in the basement, culminating on the fourth floor, which showcases the conditions and life forms of alpine glaciers. In addition, there are two ‘must-see’ features that are decidedly different in theme but are both situated in the Piedicastello district: ‘le Gallerie’ are literally gallerie or road tunnels that have been transformed into exhibition spaces which now house photographic exhibitions, multimedia installations and cultural events, while at the top of the Doss Trento hill is a monument dedicated to Cesare Battisti, an irredentist hero who advocated for the annexation of territories considered to be historically or ethnically connected to Italy but under foreign control. He was executed in 1916 and his remains are interred here. The bust honouring him was crafted by local sculptor Eraldo Fozzer.
If you’re considering an overnight stay in Trento, the Grand Hotel is a great choice, as it is conveniently located near the train station and the things you need to see and do in the city. For those interested in traditional dining, Il Cappello in Piazzetta Lunelli is a historic trattoria that fits the bill, while you may also be interested in touring the Cantine Ferrari wine cellars south of the city, which is owned by the same family. Their facility offers an excellent experience that highlights over 120 years of producing Trentodoc sparkling wines.
Bidding farewell to Trento, head to Rovereto, the second most important locality in the province, which is also accessible via high-speed trains. Serving as it does as the gateway to the Trentino side of Lake Garda and known for its historical, cultural and economic dynamism, Rovereto is the ideal alternative for those looking to extend their stay along the Adige Valley. Consider reserving overnight at Palazzo Lodron, a charming relais that has been in the family of the same name since 1456. Renovated in 2010, the south wing offers guests a welcoming and comfortable experience, complete with an indoor swimming pool that is fully operational in favourable weather. Today, the ambiance is certainly far more peaceful than it was during the Renaissance, when the Palazzo hosted tribunals for witch trials! Among the distinguished names inscribed in the Palazzo’s ‘hall of fame’ register of honour is none other than that of Mozart, who was a friend of Countess Antonia Lodron and to whom he dedicated the Lodronsche Nachtmusiken (‘Lodron Serenades’) of 1776-77. In his opera ‘Don Giovanni’, the protagonist of the melodrama even enthuses about the local wine produced in nearby Isera, proclaiming “Pour the wine! the most excellent Marzemino!” during his duet with Leporello. On the subject of Isera, our favourite restaurant in town is at the De Tarczal winery, where we highly recommend the signature dish of risotto al radicchio (chicory risotto), paired with Marzemino d’Isera wine and smoked scamorza cheese.
You will find the Guerrieri Gonzaga Park in the nearby town of Villa Lagarina. One of the largest of its kind in Trentino, it spans over three and a half hectares. Surrounded by high walls that make it difficult to see from the outside, the centre is somewhat of a secluded green oasis. There are many notable sights to uncover in Rovereto, and as this city was a border town during the First World War a visit to the Italian War Museum inside the castle is essential. In reality, however, the Mart-Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art tends to attract more tourists today with its collection of around 20,000 artworks representing all the major movements of the twentieth century. In between exploring the different rooms in the museum, you could opt to indulge in an upscale gastronomic experience at the bistro led by Michelin-starred chef Alfio Ghezzi, who has opened his fine dining restaurant Senso here. Rovereto provides easy access to Lake Garda via the San Giovanni pass which connects to Torbole. Be sure to include a scenic stop at the distinctive Marmitte dei Giganti or ‘Giants’ Pots’. These fascinating natural rock formations from the glacial era are so named because they look like enormous cooking pots or cauldrons. After Torbole you will arrive at Riva del Garda, a prime venue for trade fairs and the most important tourist location in Trentino, primarily due to the exceptional hospitality provided.
Upon leaving Riva del Garda, you have two main routes to choose from. You can either head back to Trento, following the Adige Valley via Rovereto, or alternatively, you can continue further north towards Varone to visit its well-known waterfall, and then pass by the Fiavé Archaeological Nature Park, where a Bronze Age village built on stilts once stood on what is now a UNESCO World Heritage site. From here, follow the road to San Lorenzo Dorsino, listed as one of Italy’s most beautiful villages, where you will find our second historical residence, Hotel Opinione. Established in 1834, the property has been owned and managed by the Baldessari family since its foundation. The hotel’s curious name comes from the fact that it was originally a meeting place for businessmen of the time, who convened here to discuss private, public and political affairs, allowing everyone a fair chance to voice their views. In nearly two hundred years of history, its role has remained largely unchanged, and today, as then, the hotel continues to give a warm welcome to guests on their route either towards Trento or the Adamello Brenta Park.
On the way back to Trento, we recommend you stop at Lake Toblino to admire its castle and the nearby Santa Massenza lake basin. The Forte di Cadine, strategically positioned in its day to block potential invaders’ access to Trento, has unquestionably placed its mark on the story of Trentino. After returning to the city, we suggest you venture eastwards to discover the marvels of the Valsugana region, known for the picturesque Levico and Caldonazzo lakes, as well as its apple orchards, vineyards and castles. The medieval fortress of Castel Ivano is fittingly our third and final historical residence in Trentino and dominates the charming old town of Borgo Valsugana. Dating back to the 6th century, the castle has changed hands various times over the eras: from the Ezzelino da Romano and Cangrande della Scala lords, and from the Carraresi dynasty to the Diocese of Feltre, passing over time from the Venetian Republic to dominion under the Habsburgs. Perched on the promontory of Monte Lefre, the Castel is breathtakingly impressive from the outset. It is possible to book a tour of the interior rooms, which are now primarily used for private events, or to enjoy a meal or wine tasting. The castle’s current owners actively participate in the Terre del Lagorai project, which collaborates with local vintners in the creation of wines produced using the classic Trentodoc method, as well as a distinctive pure Pinot Noir variety.
