Snow-capped peaks stretching towards the sea, charming villages where time appears to stand still and national parks where man lives in harmony with nature and wildlife: welcome to Abruzzo, a region just waiting to be discovered. Mass tourism is virtually unknown, whether you are visiting the provinces of L’Aquila and Pescara or passing through Teramo or Chieti. The main attractions, appealing to a lively crowd of holidaymakers in the summer months, are the splendid beaches to be found along the coast of the Adriatic Sea, whether it be the wide and well-equipped northern beaches or the now famous and instantly Instagrammable coves of the Costa dei Trabocchi in the south, also due in no small part to a regional cuisine that is increasingly appreciated for its array of meats, cheeses and traditional dishes. Throughout the rest of the year, a journey to the heart of Italy – for Abruzzo lies at the very centre of the country – promises a genuine immersion into a world of authentic experiences. Visitors can discover a rich tapestry of traditions, craftsmanship, spirituality, history, and a culture deeply ingrained in the Abruzzese people’s profound sense of belonging to this land of plenty. Furthermore, the historical residences of Abruzzo are perfectly equipped to offer their guests excellent hospitality, guided tours and organized private events, ranging from team-building activities to ceremonies and special celebrations.
Our journey through Abruzzo begins by the sea in a city steeped in historical and artistic significance. Ortona, a fortified village perched on the Costa dei Trabocchi, is popular with beach enthusiasts because of its pristine beaches (the most famous being Punta Ferruccio), and beloved by cyclists, due to its easy accessibility via a picturesque cycle path that runs alongside the Adriatic Sea. The route offers ample opportunities to capture unforgettable moments while enjoying an eco-friendly travel experience. A sight not to be missed is Castello Aragonese with its trapezoidal form and four cylindrical corner towers, which is considered the symbol of Ortona, as well as the Cathedral of St. Thomas the Apostle, where the relics of one of Jesus’ twelve apostles, ‘doubting Thomas’, are kept. Another important site is Palazzo Farnese, the city’s most imposing historical residence. A highlight for tourists is the Passeggiata Orientale or ‘Eastern Promenade’, offering panoramic views of the entire coastline.
A short drive from Ortona leads to our first ADSI historical residence: Convento Michetti in Francavilla al Mare. This former 15th-century Franciscan convent, now a national monument, is named after painter Francesco Paolo Michetti, who purchased the property in 1885. It served as his joint home and studio and hosted meetings of the Michettiano Cenacle, attended by cultural figures such as Gabriele D’Annunzio, who penned his most famous novel “Il Piacere” (“The Child of Pleasure”) here, along with Matilde Serao and her husband Edoardo Scarfoglio, who founded the newspaper ‘Il Mattino’ in Naples. Also part of the group were the composer and musician Francesco Paolo Tosti and many other male and female intellectuals and artists of that time. Still inhabited today by Michetti’s descendants, the Convent hosts private and cultural events accommodating up to 200 guests. It also serves as a Town Hall, making it an ideal setting for celebrating civil ceremonies in its cloister or garden. The residence welcomes visitors individually or in groups by prior appointment.
For lunch, we highly recommend the Bracevia restaurant, an ‘osteria’ renowned for its Slow Food-certified dishes, in particular its ‘arrosticini’ lamb skewers and sheep meat.
Continuing past Francavilla al Mare, the skyline of Pescara comes into view. This is the main urban centre of the region, although it is only the provincial capital, as the regional capital is in fact L’Aquila. Spend some time exploring the city centre’s shopping streets, visit the house-museum of poet and writer Gabriele D’Annunzio and admire the city’s newest landmark, the Ponte del Mare bridge, inaugurated in 2009 and stretching nearly 500 metres long. For those with more time, take a stroll along the seafront or enjoy communing with nature at the ‘Parco D’Avalos’ nature reserve, also known as the ‘D’Annunzio Pine Forest’.
The final stop after such a busy day is the historical residence we have chosen for your overnight stay: ‘Convento di San Panfilo fuori le mura’, nestled in the hills just outside Pescara. In addition to the two historically significant buildings, namely, the eleventh-century convent itself and the sixteenth-century De Sterlich tower, this extensive property operates an organic farm producing wheat, wine and extra virgin olive oil. Open to the public for several years, visitors can tour the estate and conclude their experience with a wine tasting. Starting this year, Convento di San Panfilo has expanded its offerings and now provides accommodation in rooms and suites on the first and second floors. Before heading out for dinner at one of the nearby characteristic taverns nearby, be sure to enjoy a traditional aperitif, including one of the Tenuta Pescarina wines produced in the cellar of the convent, best savoured in the fourteenth-century frescoed cloister or in the gardens of the residence.
The following morning, the first essential stop on our second day is Chieti, the provincial capital known as the ‘Terrace of Abruzzo’ for its breath-taking views from the upper city. From here, you can admire the snowy peaks of Majella and Gran Sasso d’Italia until late spring, with vistas extending from the mountains down to the coast. Chieti’s beautiful historic centre features notable landmarks such as the Cathedral of San Giustino and the elegant Teatro Marrucino, while dessert enthusiasts can sample the Gran Caffè Vittoria’s signature ‘La Virgola’ choux pastry filled with custard cream, or alternatively try Pasticceria D’Orazio for its ricotta cheese puff ‘Dolcedor’, also known as ‘Soffione di ricotta’. For those with a sweet tooth, we also suggest a brief detour of about half an hour to explore Guardiagrele, another charming gem away from the typical tourist paths. It’s celebrated not only for its stunning views of the majestic Majella massif, but also for its traditional ‘Sise delle Monache’ pastries, whimsically named after nuns’ breasts, a delicious culinary tradition meticulously upheld by pastry chef Emo Lullo. Guardiagrele is also a national hub for wrought iron artistry, boasting several workshops in its historic centre. Nearby, included in the circuit of Italy’s most beautiful villages, lies the winery of Masciarelli, one of the region’s most highly reputed wine producers. While the main estate is located in San Martino sulla Marrucina, the ultimate Masciarelli experience awaits at Castello di Semivicoli, where the hospitality, gourmet food and wine pairings, and bespoke experiences tailored for wine enthusiasts and lovers of Abruzzo, have earned this Castle the title of ‘Pop up Château’. Continuing our journey in Chieti, a short drive of less than one hour along Regional Road 5 conducts us to Sulmona, the confetti capital of Italy and birthplace of the poet Ovid, which is also the site of a monumental medieval aqueduct. If you are interested in the production (and consumption!) of confetti – small, sugared almonds coated with a hard candy shell which are traditional treats handed out at weddings, baptisms and special celebrations – a visit to Confetti Pelino, which has been in operation since 1783, is an absolute must. Sulmona is also home to a historical residence open to visitors: Grancia dei Celestini, where we recommend spending the second night of this Abruzzo tour. This ancient monastery, now transformed into a charming bed and breakfast, enjoys an enviable location in the heart of the city centre. Most of the bedrooms overlook Corso Ovidio, the main thoroughfare and a starting point for exploring Majella National Park. The façade facing the city’s main street dates back to the early 20th century, featuring Liberty style architecture with windows decorated with semi-columns and Corinthian capitals, defining the distinctive charm of Grancia dei Celestini. After settling into your room and taking a stroll through Sulmona, it’s time for supper. There are many local farm-to-table dining options nearby, while those who are still full of energy can drive up to Pacentro, which is situated 200 meters above sea level (not a bad contemplation during the hot summer months!). The Taverna de li Caldora restaurant is housed within a 15th-century historical residence and has a delightful panoramic terrace. It is an idyllic spot during the longest days of the year and is the perfect place to indulge in exquisite dishes, such as goat ricotta ravioli and grilled lamb.
At the beginning of the third day, in just over an hour, you’ll be surrounded by the beauty of the Parco Nazionale d’Abruzzo, a century-old natural reserve officially established in 1923. Spanning 50,000 hectares across Abruzzo, Lazio and Molise, the park encompasses twelve municipalities in the province of L’Aquila and features ancient beech forests. It has been recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2017. There is an abundance of snow for skiing during the winter months, while summer guarantees a serene mountain atmosphere and refreshing temperatures. Pescasseroli is nestled within the park and is considered its administrative centre. A small town populated by barely two thousand inhabitants, it is also home to Palazzo Sipari, one of ADSI’s historical residences and the birthplace of Benedetto Croce. The property was built in the 1830s on the site of an older baronial palazzo by Pietrantonio Sipari, grandfather of the renowned neo-idealist philosopher, and the Hon. Erminio Sipari, a deputy of the Kingdom of Italy and founder of the Park. The last descendant of the family, Erminio’s daughter Marchesa Maria Cristina Monticelli Obizzi Sipari, established a Foundation named after her parents in 2004, and since her death in 2006 Palazzo Sipari has served as a house museum. Its premises include the former stables and the ‘Cortile dell’Orso’ or ‘Bear Courtyard’, where young cubs were once temporarily kept before being transferred to the future wildlife enclosure when the park was first established. Also well worth seeing in Pescasseroli are the Church of the Addolorata, the nearby Mulino di San Rocco watermill and the Cathedral of Santi Pietro e Paolo. Visitors can stay over at the Foresteria guesthouse, which can also be reserved for extended stays and includes two double bedrooms, a lounge, and additional amenities. For lunch, why not try one of the speciality mountain dishes at Ristorante da Giuseppe such as their ‘Fettuccine alla Marsicana’ or the Shepherd’s Soup? In the afternoon, it’s time to head back towards the sea, taking a different route back to the Costa dei Trabocchi via Castel di Sangro. This town has earned a reputation as Abruzzo’s culinary capital, thanks to the global acclaim received by chef Niko Romito. To savour his renowned cuisine, reserve a table at Ristorante Reale, tucked away in the Contrada Piana Santa Liberata. However, if you cannot get a reservation there or you are feeling budget-conscious, there are plenty of alternatives, including the inaugural site of Alt Stazione del Gusto, which represents his newly developed roadside dining format in partnership with Eni. After enjoying a meal in Castel di Sangro and maybe taking some time to visit the medieval village of Roccacinquemiglia, we recommend planning an overnight stay here. For a complete Romito experience, it is possible to reserve one of the ten rooms at his boutique hotel Casadonna, although you would need to do so well in advance. There are also many other options, such as the ‘Don Luis’ hotel with its lakeside views or the historic 18th-century ‘Lavatoio Dimora Storica’ hotel, which features original elements from its washhouse in the main entrance hall.
