This out-of-town excursion is more extensive than what is usually offered for a tour around the outskirts of Rome. It starts and ends in the capital, exploring the extensive area outside the G.R.A. (Grande Raccordo Anulare) ring road that encircles the city. Covering a distance of just over 250 kilometres, our itinerary will encompass a circuit all around the Eternal City, from the coastline to the lakes and from ancient marshlands to majestic castles. The common thread and unifying theme of our trip is the historical residences we will visit on our way, but we also showcase the way in which the grandeur of Rome extends beyond its city limits, transmitted through its exceptionally rich history.
As this route forms a loop, the exact starting point is not of paramount importance: you can choose to start wherever is most convenient for you, since the beginning and end points will ultimately be the same. Fiumicino airport could well be a good point of departure, to some extent because Leonardo da Vinci is conveniently also Italy’s largest airport. As you head south on your journey, the first landmarks you will encounter are all archaeological parks, which is unsurprising given their proximity to Rome. Along the way, you will see the Imperial Harbours of Claudius and Trajan, the Necropolis of Portus and the Archaeological Park of Ostia Antica, which is undoubtedly one of the most fascinating sites to be found outside the Roman walls, featuring a magnificent and well-preserved Roman theatre with its Capitolium temple towering above all the other ruins. Moving forward in time to the late 1400s, the Castle of Julius II, commissioned by the then cardinal Giuliano della Rovere (who later became Pope Julius II), is also well worth a visit. Continuing on, you will pass another castle, Castel Fusano, which belongs to the Chigi family. Rather than driving towards the Lido di Ostia (an option that would, however, be made without hesitation during the hottest months of the year!), take Via Cristoforo Colombo in the direction of the EUR district, making a detour before arriving at this residential and business district and going around the Tenuta di Castel Porziano. While it is not possible to drive through this presidential estate, it is accessible on foot, as the area is open to the public. You will then arrive at Castello di Decima, the first historical residence on our itinerary. Named for its location at the decimo miglio (tenth mile) of Via Laurentina, it once housed an early medieval fortification which served as a station for changing horses. Spanning 6,145 hectares, this is the largest protected area in the Roma Natura park system. Today, the residence is used as a venue for private events and ceremonies, offering a number of different options for accommodation. From here, proceed towards Castel Romano, the home of McArthurGlen’s extremely popular Designer Outlet and also the theme park of Cinecittà World, which showcases sets designed by three-time Oscar winner Dante Ferretti. Upon reaching Pomezia, our route returns towards the sea, with the next stop at Castello Borghese situated in the village of Pratica di Mare, a name that is very well known to those familiar with the Italian Air Force. This area is legendary: owned by the Borghese family since 1617, the Castle stands on the ruins of the ancient city of Lavinium, which was founded by Aeneas after his landing on the Lazio coast. Open for visits by prior appointment, this historical residence survived intense bombings during World War II, and its hamlet has become a hotspot for prominent figures from the world of cinema, art and culture ever since the 1960s.
From here, take the coastal road, passing through Ardea, where the Giacomo Manzù Museum is located, displaying works donated by the famous sculptor to the Italian State in 1979 and opened two years later. Continue on to Anzio, which was the site of the Allied landing at the beginning of 1944. Between Anzio and Nettuno, immersed in a monumental park, stands Villa Borghese di Nettuno, formerly Villa di Bell’Aspetto, whose construction began in 1647 by order of Cardinal Vincenzo Costaguti and was later owned by the Torlonia family, before becoming the property of the Borghese princes. Today the Villa is open to the public free of charge and has ten apartments available for guest accommodation. Nearby, you can visit the Museo dell Sbarco or ‘Landing Museum’ and the Sanctuary of Santa Maria Goretti, which contains the remains of the young girl’s body, canonised for her pure actions. Nettuno marks the southernmost point of our itinerary, which now leads us inland to the Castelli Romani region, which is, as traditional Italian folk songs or ‘stornelli’ teach us, a wine-growing area of primary importance. The main offices of the ‘Consorzio di Tutela Denominazioni Vini Frascati’ consortium, dedicated to the protection and promotion of wines from the Frascati region in Italy since 1949, is indeed based here. You will next pass Lake Nemi, where the Roman Ship Museum is located, the first of its kind in Italy to have been expressly built to house its contents: two gigantic barges that belonged to the Emperor Caligula, recovered from the lake between 1929 and 1931. Halfway between Lake Nemi and Lake Albano lies another historical residence, Villa del Cardinale, which was constructed in 1629 by Cardinal Gerolamo Colonna on land donated to him by Pope Urban VIII Barberini, who enjoyed hunting in this area. Set in a centuries-old park, the Villa is now available for private events and ceremonies, with 20 rooms in the Villa and another 14 in the nearby hamlet. Tours can be arranged by appointment and for group visits. Villa Barattolo is a second historic home located within the municipal area of Rocca di Papa, which is today the headquarters of the Regional Authority of the Castelli Romani Park. Built in the early 1900s by Milanese Achille Franzosini, it was later sold to lawyer Giuseppe Barattolo, a film industry entrepreneur from the silent film era. In 1989, it was purchased by the Park Authority and renovated for the housing of their offices. A nature trail with an open-air laboratory has been created in the park.
From Villa Barattolo, retrace your steps to Marino and the enchanting village of Castel Gandolfo, the summer residence of the Popes, where the remains of Villa of Domitian and the Vatican Farm can be found. Still overlooking Lake Albano, you will arrive at Ariccia, universally renowned for its production of Porchetta IGP (Protected Geographical Indication), which is celebrated annually with a festival held in early September. Before you get to Frascati, take a quick detour to discover the Tenuta di Fiorano estate near Ciampino airport. This centuries-old, fortified farmhouse is owned by the Boncompagni Ludovisi Princes, who are worldwide ambassadors for Fiorano white and red wines. Additionally, the farm produces other organic products such as pasta, flour, oil, honey and jam from its agricultural activities. The gourmet section is available by appointment, which also serves as a venue for private events and ceremonies.
We highly recommend you spend some time in Frascati, not only for a tour of its ‘fraschette’, as its taverns are famously called, but also and especially for its rich historical and artistic heritage as the main town of the Castelli Romani region: namely, the 15th-century Cathedral, the Church of Santa Maria del Vivaro, the Episcopal Palace, ancient Tusculum with the remains of a Roman theatre from the 2nd century AD and numerous villas testifying to the heights of splendour achieved during the Renaissance period. Close to Frascati is the Tenuta di Pietra Porzia, named after its former Roman owner, Marco Porcio Cato, and now in the possession of the Giulini family. The estate cultivates vines and olives, offers tours of its cellar and the underground lake (the age-old Lake Regillus, site of a battle between Romans and Latins), and provides an ideal accommodation option for staying in the Castelli Romani area, just a few kilometres from the centre of Rome.
The time has come to leave the Castelli Romani behind and head back to our set-off point. To expedite your return trip, take the Grande Raccordo Anulare at Tor Bella Monaca and continue to the exit for Via Flaminia Nuova, where you can include a stop at Castello di Tor Crescenza. This time-honoured fortress, complete with drawbridge, was originally a defensive tower (built in 1100) and was expanded to its current size in the 15th century by Marquis Francesco Crescenzi. Its proximity to Rome and the Parioli district makes it an ideal setting for the organisation of large events.
As our journey comes to a close and we return to our starting point, we visit the final residence on this out-of-town itinerary along the Via Aurelia: Castello di Torre in Pietra, near Fiumicino. Of medieval origin, the centre of this castle-cum-hamlet is dominated by a 17th-century palazzo containing frescoes by Pier Leone Ghezzi on its main ‘piano nobile’ floor. Built at the behest of the Peretti Princes, the property had several owners before being acquired in 1926 by Senator Luigi Albertini, the historic director of the Corriere della Sera newspaper, whose heirs still own it today. In addition to being a location for private events, the Castle can be visited, as can the Cantina Castello di Torre in Pietra winery, which produces organic wines, and the Osteria dell’Elefante restaurant – what better place to conclude your trip, with a wine tasting paired with local speciality dishes.
