Monferrato is a truly important region of Italy in terms of its historical and cultural significance. Not surprisingly, it has been granted the accolade of not one or two, but three UNESCO World Heritage site titles. This vast geographical area, whose borders are defined to the north by the Po River and to the south by the Tanaro, Belbo and Bormida rivers, has been recognised for its wine-producing landscape, for the Monte Sacro di Crea (other sanctuaries are located in northern Piedmont and Lombardy) and for the presence of the unique ‘Infernot’ – small underground chambers hand-carved into the stone of the cantoni, a singular geological formation found only in Lower Monferrato. Moreover, because this region is also known for its truffle cultivation, a fourth UNESCO designation could potentially be included on the list for truffle hunting and extraction. Our itinerary explores this incredible treasure trove of gems in the hope that a fifth UNESCO award could well be added in due course, celebrating the European network of historical residences, given that Monferrato is home to so many of them. Here goes…
We begin our journey just outside Monferrato and will venture outside the region as we go, so it is apt to consider this route as encompassing ‘Monferrato and its surroundings’. Our first stop is in the city of Vercelli, reputed to be the rice capital of Europe. After visiting the town centre and its principal landmarks (the Duomo, Piazza Cavour, the Basilica di Sant’Andrea), head to Principato di Lucedio, an ancient Cistercian abbey founded in 1123. The monks began cultivating rice here back in the 15th century, introducing the first ever rice-producing enterprise in Italy. Today, the abbey belongs to the Cavalli d’Olivola family, who open it to the public for private events and ceremonies, guided tours and the sale of products still produced on the estate, including classic and special types of rice, rice-based pasta, flour, pulses and desserts.
After crossing the Po River at Trino, you will enter the heart of the Monferrato region and can explore the historic Castello di Gabiano, which boasts over a thousand years of history. Now a significant wine-producing estate, the Castle offers exclusive and charming accommodation with a range of suites, apartments and bedrooms within the complex, together with a wine shop, a tasting room and a fine restaurant where you can pair local wines with traditional dishes, named Agriturismo 3 Orologi.
A little further south is Gaminella, which leads to the Sacro Monte di Crea sanctuary, the only example of a Sacro Monte (or Holy Mountain) located in the Apennines rather than the Alps. It is composed of the sanctuary itself, plus 23 chapels and 5 hermitages, all mostly built between 1589 and 1612. After this detour south, return to Gaminella and continue on towards Mombello Monferrato, the home of Palazzo Tornielli di Crestvolant. This neo-classical residence in the locality of Molare has been owned by the Torniellis for almost 200 years, and the family still resides there today. The palazzo is open to visitors from July to September on the second and fourth Sundays of each month, and is also available for private events and ceremonies.
Drive through Ozzano Monferrato with its fortified castle in the direction of Rosignano Monferrato, considered to be the centrepiece of Monferrato Casalese or Lower Monferrato, and famous for its seven public Infernot chambers, as well as several private ones. You are now in the land of Grignolino wine, and we highly recommend you visit one of the local wineries or alternatively visit the ‘La città del vino’ agricultural museum, which features tools and instruments that highlight the agricultural and wine-producing heritage of the region. For lunch, we recommend a relaxing stop at A Casa di Babette before travelling further along the historical residence route and entering Casale, the main centre of Lower Monferrato. Here you should pay a visit to the renowned Palazzo Gozzani Treville, an exemplary 18th-century building which houses the Accademia Filarmonica music academy. On the first floor of the palazzo, you will find the Accademia Ristorante, a sophisticated space where you can taste the refined cuisine of chef Luca Filia and champagne selected by Nicola Mecca. Other absolute must-sees at Piazza Castello are the town’s Castle, built by Giovanni II Paleologi in 1352, the Church of Santa Caterina, which is a Baroque gem, and the Municipal Theatre, which was inaugurated in 1791 and is regarded as the top theatre in Piedmont after Turin. Biscuit aficionados will already know that Casale Monferrato is famous for its handlebar-shaped krumiri, where the best place to sample them is at Portinaro & Co’s Krumiri Rossi pastry shop on Via Lanza, where the very first batch of biscuits was invented and baked. Meanwhile, for a suggestion of where to sleep, we propose you leave Casale and drive to Giarole, where Castello Sannazzaro lies. This historic residence, still owned by the same family since it was built following a title granted by Emperor Frederick Barbarossa to four knights of the Sannazzaro family on 4 December 1163, provides six bedrooms for guests and is also open for visits without the need to stay overnight.
From here, continue in an easterly direction, following the course of the Po River as far as the capital of Italian jewellery. Valenza is renowned throughout the world for its goldsmithing and is a centre of excellence for its craftsmanship, so much so that many major luxury brands are investing in the city and surrounding areas. Those with an unlimited budget will want to take the opportunity to make purchases, while those with more limited funds can still explore the techniques and tools used by artisans at the different thematic locations of the MOD Museo dell’Oreficeria Diffuso museum spread throughout the town. From Valenza, proceed to Alessandria to see its citadel, one of the largest military fortifications in Europe, as well as visiting the cathedral, Piazza della Libertà with its majestic buildings, and the Borsalino hat museum, founded in 1857, whose factory is still fully operational in the nearby area of Spinetta Marengo. At this point, cross the Tanaro River and enter Piovera, where visitors can experience the monumental complex of Castello di Piovera on foot, aboard a vintage car, or even on an original Red Bus. This 14th-century fortress, originally of Visconti origin, is home to works by Niccolò Calvi di Bergolo, who was both artist and owner of the castle. From Piovera, travel up into the Scrivia Valley, passing Tortona, and take a break at Cassano Spinola and the Palazzo Spinola-Millelire. Inside the palazzo, you will find a gallery containing works by Genoese Baroque masters of 16th and 17th centuries. There is also beautiful park with a 17th-century stone fountain at its centre.
Next on the agenda is Novi Ligure, where you will be able to taste firsthand the inviting results of the town’s rich chocolate-making tradition at the Bodrato pastry shop, and visit one of the most important properties in Piedmont. The Tenuta La Marchesa is a 17th-century historical residence in the midst of a 76-hectare wine estate, 58 hectares of which form a single vineyard. A range of options for overnight stays are offered in rooms containing antique furniture. It is also possible to take a wine-tasting visit at the winery and organise a privately guided tour round the estate and the villa. After a visit to the Museo dei Campionissimi, Europe’s largest cycling museum, which is a celebration of the cycling legends from the area – in particular, Fausto Coppi and Costante Girardengo – we propose you return to the Monferrato region and, more specifically, Upper Monferrato. Castello di Orsara in Orsara Bormida is a fortified historic home with ten hectares of vineyards extending from the foot of the castle, producing typical regional wines such as Barbera del Monferrato, Dolcetto d’Acqui and Brachetto, among others. Guests accommodated at the Castle stay in an exclusive private annex, which is open all year round. After a detour to Acqui Terme to admire the Castello dei Paleologi and its Archaeological Museum, continue on to Nizza Monferrato and the exclusive wine-growing area of Nizza DOCG. Here you can learn about the history of viticulture at the visionary Bersano Museums, located at the ancient winery close to the train station. Only two more stops remain to be discovered on our itinerary. The penultimate is Costigliole d’Asti, where the Castello degli Asinari fortress is considered one of the most beautiful and important landmarks in the Asti region. And last but far from least, our last stop is – unsurprisingly, given the reputation for wine in this region – a historical home with a wine estate. Where better place to conclude our journey, than at the Tenuta Marchesi Alfieri, where the excellent Barbera d’Asti DOCG is produced. The grape has been cultivated here since 1696, when the Alfieri family succeeded the lineage and managed to reunify the estate through the exchange and acquisition of other properties, transforming the ancient castle into a splendid Baroque residence. In addition to offering a visit to the winery with two different tasting options, the Tenuta also proposes a variety of guest accommodation possibilities, with seven rooms provided for visitors.
