This itinerary crosses from one lake to another, passing through a city that is pivotal in terms of Italy’s history and economy – Brescia – as well as a renowned wine region, which has established itself on both the Italian and international wine markets so rapidly and with such success that it has become a brand name in its own right – Franciacorta. The two aforementioned lakes are, of course, Garda and Iseo. Our journey begins and ends in the province of Brescia and will reveal the remarkable beauty of an area that has become a hugely popular tourist destination, thanks in no small part to its emphasis on natural beauty, aesthetic appeal and harmony, despite its heavily industrialised backdrop. In addition, this whole region boasts a broad network of services that are hard to parallel elsewhere. Integral to the tourism experience are the historical residences, which serve both as attractions and as venues for visits and overnight stays. The adventure begins at Lake Garda. Or, to be more specific, an island actually on Lake Garda.
Isola Borghese Cavazza, also known as Isola del Garda, is accessible from San Felice del Benaco on the Brescian side of the lake. It was inhabited for almost six centuries by Franciscan friars before transitioning through various owners to the Cavazza family. Its charming allure lies primarily in the stunning Venetian neo-Gothic architecture designed by Luigi Rovelli in the early 20th century, its picturesque location and the beautifully curated garden filled with local and exotic plants, rare species and unique flowers. Visitors can tour the island, the entrance fee including the boat ride to and from San Felice, a guided tour of the gardens and parts of the villa, plus a complimentary welcome drink. The venue is available for rental for weddings and corporate gatherings, with additional catering options.
Just a stone’s throw away from San Felice is the beautiful historic centre and its Duomo, while of particular note is the scenic lakeside promenade at Salò, the main town on the western side of Lake Garda, and neighbouring Gardone Riviera. The latter has become a favoured tourist spot largely because of the Vittoriale degli Italiani museum complex. The project, conceived by Gabriele D’Annunzio and designed by architect Giancarlo Maroni, represents a monument to the life and ideals of this poet, journalist and patriot, while also honouring the achievements of Italian soldiers during World War I. In recent years, meanwhile, Gardone has emerged as a gastronomic destination, largely thanks to the fine dining offered by Lido 84, the acclaimed restaurant run by the Camanini brothers, which currently holds the title of the best Italian restaurant and ranks twelfth globally according to The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. Discerning travellers wishing to experience exceptional hospitality could elect to stay at one of the designer villas at Eden Reserve, located in a panoramic spot just a short distance from the Vittoriale, which provides luxurious suites, private villas and outstanding culinary options. Next, head further south towards Moniga, where you can visit an esteemed winery called Costaripa, owned by sparkling wine expert Mattia Vezzola, who has had a significant influence in the Valtènesi region and has changed the course of its history with his classic wine-making methods. Bidding farewell to the lake at Padenghe, make a stop at the Abbey of Maguzzano – be sure to take a look at the Abbot’s bedroom to appreciate a cell that was worthy of a Renaissance prince even in this context! – and then proceed to Lonato, where the second historical home on our list is located. Casa del Podestà, the Magistrate’s House, was the official residence of the representative tasked with overseeing the territory for Venice, which governed the territory for more than 350 years. After being abandoned, it was eventually purchased at a public auction in 1906 by Ugo Da Como, a liberal lawyer and deputy, who restored the building to its former glory, transforming it into a house-museum. Today, it hosts private events and ceremonies while remaining open for public tours, allowing visitors to explore the Casa-Museo del Podestà’s library, Rocca and the Civic Ornithological Museum.
From Lonato, the next stop is Brescia, the second-largest city in Lombardy after Milan in terms of population, affectionately known as the ‘Lioness of Italy’ due to its citizens’ courageous resistance in the Italian Wars of Independence during the Risorgimento period. You should plan to spend at least a day here, because there is a whole plethora of sights to see. For starters, there is the city’s castle perched on the Cidneo Hill, very close to the historic centre. Piazza della Loggia, heavily characterised by the Venetian style, serves as a memorial site for the 1974 bombing incident, while Piazza Paolo VI has come to be known as the ‘Piazza delle Due Cattedrali’ as it houses both the New and the Old Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta (Duomo Nuovo and Duomo Vecchio), which are referred to respectively as the ‘Summer’ and ‘Winter’ cathedrals because of their size and the warmth they generate. The Santa Giulia Museum, located in a former Lombard monastic complex, is recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Brescia is also the birthplace of one of the most important pastry chefs in Italy’s history, Iginio Massari. His Pasticceria Veneto, established in 1971, has become a landmark for pastry enthusiasts and is regarded as one of the best in Italy. For lunch, consider the excellent trattoria L’Osteria della zia Gabri or the Antico Beccaria restaurant, both of which are acknowledged by the Lombardy Region as businesses that have historically contributed to the cultural and economic heritage locally.
The time has come to leave the big city and embark on the route towards Lake Iseo, crossing through Franciacorta. It is possible to enjoy a unique experience, renting bicycles near the train station in order to take full advantage of the impressive network of cycling paths in the area, which will allow you to travel at a leisurely pace and have access to the many local wineries in this renowned Brescia designation. Speaking of wine and vineyards, do check out Vigneto Pusterla before leaving Brescia. Adjacent to the castle, it is currently operated by the Franciacorta Monte Rossa winery and is the largest urban vineyard in Europe.
Before setting off on your journey, a few essential details need to be addressed. What does the term ‘Franciacorta’ signify? And what exactly does France have to do with the most famous wine region of Brescia? The short answer there is: nothing at all! The name originates from the presence of Cluniac and Cistercian monasteries in medieval times, which became so powerful that they obtained exemptions from tax payments, the so-called ‘corti franche’ or ‘tax-free courts’. And since when has wine been produced in Franciacorta? Since time immemorial, is in fact the correct response, but the official birthdate of sparkling wine made in the classic method dates back to 1961, the year when Count Guido Berlucchi and young oenologist Franco Ziliani realised their dream of producing wines in Franciacorta akin to those made in Champagne. This resulted in the first vintage of ‘Pinot di Franciacorta’, a bottle of which is jealously guarded in the cellars of the winery named after its founder, Guido Berlucchi, now managed by Ziliani’s descendants.
With this information under your belt, you are all set, and ready to take to the cycle paths leading to Gussago, the first municipality of Franciacorta you will encounter when travelling from Brescia. Continue on to the Benedictine Abbey of San Nicola in Rodengo, which is inhabited by Olivetan monks to this day and is open for visits. Afterwards, head to Camignone di Passirano, where you will discover a historical residence that also serves as a prominent Franciacorta winery: Borgo Mosnel. This establishment features three palazzos from the 16th and 17th centuries. The façade of the main villa, which is owned by the Barboglio family (now represented by the Barzanò name), appears in the Mosnel company logo. The estate includes an agriturismo and reception area. Visitors can explore the winery, the borgo and the villa’s park with its ancient flora, before tasting Mosnel wines paired with local delicacies.
After Passirano is another of our historic sites, located in Bornato. The Castello di Bornato is a rare example of a Renaissance villa built within a medieval castle. It has belonged to the Orlandos since 1930, and the family still inhabit the residence and love sharing the magic contained with its walls with their guests. The Castle opens its doors to the public for guided tours that conclude with a tasting of Franciacorta wines produced on the agricultural estate. In addition, the adjoining 12th-century farmhouse, positioned beside the castle and overlooking the vineyards, has been renovated and now provides accommodate in the form of several apartments.
Continuing south from Bornato, you will cross under the A4 motorway that traverses Franciacorta, arriving at Rovato, where you can visit Castello Quistini, also referred to as Palazzo Porcellaga and named after the noble family that commissioned its construction in 1560 as a fortified residence to replace the previous Castle of Rovato. Several rooms of the Castle are open to the public, including the Sala Grottesca, adorned in the grotesque style with intricate, whimsical decorations inspired by ancient Roman wall paintings and grotto-like motifs. Visitors can explore a spacious Hall – the largest single-room salon in Franciacorta – which spans 150 square metres. The gardens are accessible for visits during May and June.
At this point, you will again cross the motorway en route for Erbusco, home to the Franciacorta Consortium for the protection of Franciacorta DOCG, and Palazzo Milesi. This 17th-century noble villa, complete with its own vineyard and ancient cellars, has been the site of the Milesi family’s Franciacorta brut production for several generations. The villa, which has a swimming pool, is still periodically inhabited by the owners; however, when unoccupied, it is available for rental for holiday stays for a minimum period of one week and corporate functions (minimum stay of three nights).
Upon leaving Erbusco, the next destination is the locality of Nigoline Bonomelli, where Palazzo Monti della Corte, owned by the D’Ansembourg family, is situated. The estate’s stunning English garden, complemented by the nearby stone atrium from Sarnico, creates a charming and elegant setting. The venue can be rented exclusively for private events and receptions for up to a maximum of 130 people.
With this visit complete, Borgonato is next on the map. This is where the very first bottle of the classic Franciacorta method created in 1961 is proudly preserved at the Guido Berlucchi cellars. The Torbiere del Sebino Nature Reserve is a 15-minute cycle ride away: this is the most important wetland area in the Brescia province in terms of its size, which covers 360 hectares. From here, there is a dedicated pathway for cyclists and pedestrians leading directly to Lake Iseo, and the main town of Iseo. The town attracted one and a half million visitors in 2016, thanks to an installation by Bulgarian artist Christo, which consisted of a series of floating piers connecting various points of the lake. Today, the atmosphere at Iseo is much calmer, and you are sure to receive you a warm welcome in what is a very fitting finale for your journey.
