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Lombardy – Lake Como to Valtellina, visiting eight historical residences in Lombardy

Travelling around Lake Como is such a wonderful experience that the Lario (another name for Lake Como which comes from its ancient Latin name, Larius Lacus) has become a dream destination, coveted by affluent international tourists. Arab, Indian, and American cultures have all strongly embraced the growing trend of weddings in picturesque locations abroad. This worldwide appeal complicates the plans of those wanting to embark on a discovery of the spectacular lakeside villas, as high season tends to attract significant crowds, just as it does in so many other globally recognised Italian locations. It is therefore advisable to pre-book access to the historical residences along our route as a precaution. The lake can be navigated by car or by crossing the lake using the efficient services offered by the local ferry operators – which provides the additional advantage of avoiding busy traffic queues, potential fines and the inevitable parking hassles.
Having set the stage, it’s time to map out a route that will guide us from Lecco and uncover the many wonders of this beautiful lake, with an option to continue north and discover the surprises held in store by Valtellina, which is intrinsically linked to the Lago di Como because it is ultimately the Adda River flowing through the valley that ‘feeds’ the lake.
The initial segment of the journey requires a car as you head south from Lecco to visit the area’s ‘minor lakes’, as they are called. Taking a stroll along the lakeside promenade of this provincial capital serves as an excellent starting point, as it will instantly instil the relaxing tone that will define this adventure. In addition, Lecco offers many places of interest, including the museum complex of Palazzo Belgiojoso, which hosts sections on Natural History, Archaeology and History, together with the recently added Planetarium. Villa Manzoni, the childhood home and summer residence of the author of ‘I Promessi Sposi’ (‘The Betrothed’), is also well worth visiting. It was in this place that Alessandro Manzoni developed a deeper understanding of ‘that branch of Lake Como…’, to quote the famous opening line of the novel. For lunch, we recommend the Pontile Orestino located on the Lungolario for those who appreciate traditional cuisine, while Nicolin offers a more gourmet menu. Noteworthy patisseries include Pontiggia in Piazza Cermenati and ArteSapori (run by father and son master pastry chefs, the Valsecchis) on Via Nazario Sauro. After departing from Lecco, head to Calolziocorte to visit the first historic site: the Castello di Rossino has similarly been immortalised by Manzoni, as this the residence he chose for the infamous character Innominato in his novel. The castle is open for visits by prior reservation and can also host wine tasting events. It is frequently used as a venue for ceremonies and private events and even has a suite within the tower. Nearby, you can explore the Monastery of Lavello and the well-known ‘Leonardesque’ ferry in Imbersago which is attributed to a design by Leonardo da Vinci.

Cross the bridge that separates the Lecco branch of the Lario from the small lake of Olginate and follow the shoreline of Lake Annone in the direction of Cremella, where the second historical residence awaits. Villa del Bono is a late 19th-century construction, renowned for its immense park, which holds private events and can be rented for ceremonies, photo shoots and film productions, complete with catering service. The remaining portion, featuring an inviting swimming pool, can be reserved upon request from May to September. There are some minor lakes in the vicinity, such as those of Pusiano and Alserio, along with the even smaller lakes at Segrino and Montorfano. The latter is home to the Villa D’Este Golf Club.
The historic centre of Como cannot be overlooked, with highlights including the Cathedral dedicated to Santa Maria Assunta and the Gothic-Roman Palazzo Broletto, both of which are situated in Piazza Duomo, as well as the Basilica of San Fedele. Making time for a scenic lakeside walk and a funicular ride up to Brunate is also highly recommended. Upon leaving Como and continuing along the lakeside, you will arrive in Cernobbio with its spectacular villas, one of which is the third historical residence on the agenda. Villa Pizzo is perched on a rocky spur between Cernobbio and Moltrasio, a position that in fact makes it fully visible only from the lake. Constructed by the Mugiasca family, the Villa became a refuge for men and women fleeing Como during the plague of 1629 that was described in Manzoni’s masterpiece. The owners took advantage of the outbreak during this period, employing the manpower of the men and women present for the construction of the terraced areas upon which the Villa’s extensive grounds were created, today one of the Villa’s main attractions. Scientist Alessandro Volta was among the many distinguished guests who stayed at the Villa and a commemorative monument was commissioned there following his death. Over the course of its history it has changed hands several times and is currently open to the public through guided tours by reservation and by renting it for private events and ceremonies.

On we go to Laglio, which gained notoriety when a villa was purchased there by George Clooney. For an unforgettable lakeside meal, we suggest you try the Crotto dei Platani restaurant in Brienno, a venue that is tucked into the rock between the lake and Mount Gringo. Continuing along, you will drive through Argegno and Sala Comacina, from where you can easily access Isola Comacina to view the Complesso dei SS. Faustino e Giovita, an ancient church complex dedicated to two Christian martyrs, Saints Faustino and Giovita. There are also three artist residences built in 1940 by architect Pietro Lingeri in the rationalist style and inspired by the holiday home model of Le Corbusier.
After Ossuccio, you will reach the fourth residence on our tour: Casa Vittoria in Tremezzina is the guesthouse of a villa that was formerly the property of the Milanese aristocratic family Litta Modignani. Created during the first half of the 19th century by architect Luigi Tatti in the neoclassical style, it is surrounded by a garden providing stunning views of the lake, accessible via a pier where motorboats and seaplanes can be docked. Following recent renovations by architect Cristiana Vannini, Casa Vittoria offers an ideal retreat for those seeking a peaceful getaway in one of the most picturesque and relaxing settings on the lake, with four well-appointed guest rooms containing antique furnishings and artworks, naturally with views directly over the lake and garden. Casa Vittoria is conveniently situated close to the fifth residence on our itinerary, Villa Sola Cabiati, which is likewise located in Tremezzina. Originally a summer retreat for the Serbelloni dukes dating back to the early 1500s, the Villa eventually came into the possession of the Sola Cabiati counts, whose family still owns it today. The estate is adorned with beautifully landscaped Italian gardens and an ancient park, available for week-long holiday rentals with staff on hand at the guests’ disposal (in the form of a housekeeper, a chef, a butler, and maid service). It can be rented for private events, dinners, breakfasts, photo or film shoots and weddings. Additional amenities include private parking, a swimming pool with a cottage and a solarium, a helipad and a private docking area for boats.
After Tremezzo, our route takes us towards the northernmost part of the lake. Menaggio is the intersection from where you may choose a potential detour towards Porlezza and Lake Lugano, complete with the remarkable Val Sanagra Orrido canyon. Continuing further north is the village of Rezzonico and its scenic castle, after which travellers can follow the road to Dongo. Synonymous with the historical events that took place here at the end of World War II, Dongo is also the site of two more historical residences, La Casetta nel Parco and Villa Rubini Redaelli. La Casetta nel Parco is an ancient stone building positioned within a park spanning over one hectare, not far from the lake. It was acquired in the late 1800s by engineer Giulio Rubini, a Member of Parliament and three-time Minister at the turn of the century. This property provides the perfect opportunity for a tranquil holiday in its attic, complete with fireplace in the living room, a terrace overlooking the park and mountains, three bedrooms and two bathrooms. It is available for rental all year round.

Engineer Rubini was also responsible for the creation of Villa Rubini Redaelli during the same period, designed in a lakeside architectural style as a wedding gift for his daughter Luigia, who was marrying Lino Redaelli, a member of a prominent family from Lecco that owned steel manufacturing businesses. The villa, and in particular the garden, were completely renovated in the early 1960s thanks to a revolutionary project by the architect Francesco Clerici.
This residence, which has an oval swimming pool, can be rented out during the months of May, June and September as a holiday home and for destination weddings, receptions and workshops. It can accommodate up to a maximum of 18 guests for overnight stays.
Colico is regarded as the point of departure from Lake Como for those travelling from the south, as is the case for this trip. However, while crossing over the Ponte del Passo bridge, you will be able to catch a glimpse of the Pian di Spagna nature reserve to the left, and the last of the accessible lakes in this truly unique part of Lombardy. Lake Mezzola essentially marks the junction between the provinces of Como, Lecco and Sondrio. From this point, you can either return towards Lecco along the eastern shore of the lake, following a pretty route where there are other places to visit connected to Manzoni and his stories, or enter Valtellina and pay a visit to the final historical residence on this itinerary. A short distance from Sondrio, in the historic heart of Ponte in Valtellina, lies Roseto del Drago of Casa Cassan. Visitors can fully enjoy the beautiful frescoes, courtyards and the rose gardens that have lent the Roseto establishment its name without worrying too much about overstaying their welcome, as Roseto del Drago also provides accommodation in four guest apartments. For dinner in the area, it is well worth your while driving to Teglio to savour the legendary pasta dish Pizzoccheri alla Valtellinese, made with potatoes and savoy cabbage, layered with semi-hard cheeses and seasoned with garlic and sage sautéed in butter. For other ideas of the best addresses to try this celebrated Valtellina classic in the vicinity, you need look no further than the restaurants affiliated with the Accademia del Pizzocchero. Buon appetito!