Northern Tuscany often experiences snow on the Apennine mountains during the winter, creating a landscape that is distinctly different from the typical summer scenery of Siena’s rolling hills. This contrasting part of Tuscany combines mountainous and more urbanised areas, alternating between industrial zones, sprawling metropolitan cities and softly undulating hills covered in vineyards and olive groves, alongside charming villages, historical centres, busy factories and artisan workshops. This itinerary, planned to last a minimum of three days, begins in the hills of Florence, where the Mugello ends, and winds its way through the provinces of Prato, Pistoia and Lucca, before concluding in Pisa. Our starting point is a historical residence near Fiesole, in the locality of Vaglia. Villa Pozzolini in Bivigliano was originally a castle belonging to the Cattani family of Cercina which was transformed by the Ginori family in the late 16th century. Surrounded by a vast historic park rich in exotic tree species, the Villa has been owned by the Pozzolini family since shortly before the unification of Italy and serves as a venue for private events, galas, film sets, photoshoots, conferences and special celebrations. After leaving Vaglia, drive in the direction of Careggi, where our next stop is Fiesole, home to the archaeological site featuring the Roman remains of the theatre and baths, and the Etruscan-Roman temple. Those going inside the Archaeological Museum will also be privy to the Costantini Collection containing Greek ceramics, Magna Graecia pieces and Etruscan artifacts. The town centre also boasts the Cathedral of San Romolo, and there are several castles located in the surrounding area, along with notable villas, such as the renowned Villa Medici (also known as the Palagio di Fiesole) with its terraced garden offering panoramic views of Florence, undeniably the most distinctive of all the Medici villas and a favourite of Lorenzo the Magnificent.
After bypassing the Tuscan capital, our route takes us to Prato, the most industrial city in the region, where the largest textile district in Europe is based. It is definitely worth stopping here to appreciate the Piazza del Comune and Piazza del Duomo town hall and cathedral squares, with the characteristic two-tone façade in alberese and green Prato marble, and to visit the Church and Convent of San Domenico. Be sure to discover Prato’s great pastry tradition: pick up a box of the exquisite Prato biscotti made by Antonio Mattei’s award-winning bakery and taste the delicious ‘peschine’ pastries from Nuovo Mondo, crafted by master pastry chef Paolo Sacchetti. For lunch, head to one of these two popular spots: explore the culinary fusion of Pepenero on Via Zarini or sample the fares at the Il Dek Italian Bistrot in Piazza delle Carceri, which also has a branch on the island of Ibiza.
The road between Prato and Pistoia is quick and extremely easy to navigate. We propose you spend the night in this city, which famously hosts the medieval-style jousting tournament, the Giostra dell’Orso palio event, in Piazza Duomo on 25 July every year. Why not, for example, choose to stay overnight in Palazzo Puccini, a historical residence in the very heart of the city? Fully renovated in 2017, it has been open for hospitality for over ten years, and provides nine bedrooms, most of which are frescoed and furnished with period pieces. This charming building was the birthplace of Niccolò Puccini, a local writer and philanthropist. For dinner, we suggest you reserve a table at one of these two locally appreciated trattorias: Checco Bugiani’s Locanda del Capitano del Popolo on Via di Stracceria or La BotteGaia on Via del Lastrone. Try one of the traditional dishes at the Locanda, such as the ‘carcerato pistoiese’ soup, which translates as ‘Pistoian fare for prisoners’, referring to its modest origins, that elevates humble beef scraps into a culinary delight.
On the second day of our journey, we head towards Lucca, passing through two internationally acclaimed spa towns on the way, namely Montecatini and Monsummano. Montecatini Terme is one of the eleven Great Spa Towns of Europe and is named as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, but the town is also well worth visiting for its perfectly preserved historic centre, with its parks, gardens and Art Nouveau villas. Monsummano, meanwhile, offers two key attractions: it is both a major hub for quality footwear production and also draws the crowds for artisanal chocolate-making, thanks to the presence of the illustrious chocolatier, Andrea Slitti. Staying off the motorway on the drive from Montecatini to Lucca, take the scenic route via Pescia, with a stop-off firstly to admire its cathedral and then to step inside the Hesperidarium, a garden containing over 200 varieties of citrus trees from all around the world. Don’t forget to call upon the Palazzo Vescovile or Bishop’s Palace, inside of which is a chapel decorated with a triptych by Luca della Robbia. Close to Pescia lies the medieval hamlet of Collodi, the birthplace of Carlo Lorenzini’s mother, who created the one and only Pinocchio. Collodi still attracts families with children today to its Polycentric Park, dedicated to the most famous puppet in history. You will enter Lucca from the northeast after driving close to two small towns specialising in the production of shoes, and particularly sandals: Segromigno and San Colombano. Our first destination in Lucca is Villa Reale di Marlia, a 17th-century estate that was once the home of Elisa Bonaparte Baciocchi, Napoleon’s sister and Princess of Lucca. The Villa’s park and museums are open to the public, and thanks to the restoration of the early 20th-century Games Pavilion, you can now enjoy a well-earned break at Café Villa Reale.
Just a short distance away is the ancient complex of Villa Grabau, which is surrounded by a 9-hectare botanical park that includes a Limonaia lemon house dating from the 1600s and the Teatrino di Verzura, where civil wedding ceremonies can be held. The Villa also operates as a period residence offering three types of accommodation for guests, while visitors not staying at the villa can still plan a tour of the gardens and interiors. Boasting five bedrooms and a private swimming pool, our third historic home in Lucca could well be the ideal choice for anyone seeking an unforgettable holiday, as the whole of Villa Le Cipresse, located in San Quirico di Moriano, is available for exclusive rental. It is a prestigious option, and includes a garden with a seating area which has sofas and armchairs, as well as an outdoor ‘al fresco’ dining area for 12 people. A fourth villa, within easy reach of Lucca, is Villa Michaela (formerly Villa Nottolini) in Vorno, just south of the centre. Originally constructed in the 15th century, it was extensively renovated in the second half of the 19th century by the Nottolini family. Today, it can be booked for holidays, private events and weddings. All of these properties naturally lead holiday-makers toward the heart of Lucca, a city that warrants more than a single day to fully explore it. There are many different attractions to discover in addition to the iconic Piazza dell’Anfiteatro, including the Cathedral of San Martino, Piazza Napoleone, the House-Museum of Giacomo Puccini, the National Museum of Villa Giunigi and the Botanical Garden situated beside the Renaissance walls, not to mention the lovely riverside park running alongside the Serchio River. Lucca is renowned for its handcrafted treasures, ranging from wood and leather goods to jewellery, as you can see from this compendium of master artisans offering workshops that provide everything your heart could desire. For fine dining, consider booking a table at L’Imbuto, where celebrated chef Cristiano Tomei works, or alternatively plump for the traditional menu at Osteria Baralla or Buca di Sant’Antonio.
The third day of this itinerary will take you from Lucca to the Terre di Pisa region, without necessarily resulting in your visiting the city of the infamous Leaning Tower, which could indeed serve as the starting point for a different tour along the Tuscan coast. Instead, you will pass through San Giuliano Terme and subsequently Uliveto Terme, where the spring of a very well-known mineral water is located, arriving at Villa Rita in the locality of Noce. This historical residence dates back to the 1400s and features frescoes depicted by Ghirlanda, a 16th-century Florentine painter. The Villa is located adjacent to the Uliveto Terme spa in an ancient medieval village and was constructed in several phases. It primarily functions as a venue for weddings and private events, but also offers hospitality and catering services upon request. Cross the Arno River and head toward Ponsacco, where you will find the Tenuta di Camugliano, built around the central structure of Villa Niccolini, which has been owned by the family since 1637. The Tenuta is the perfect place to plan your next trip in a rural-chic environment, as organic farming is practiced here, producing wine, olive oil and pasta from ancient grains; these and other products can be purchased directly on the estate. The property also includes two villas and a small borgo where guests can stay, and the Locanda di Camugliano provides ample restaurant services. Our final destination is Lajatico, whose recent rise to fame is closely associated with that of Andrea Bocelli, who created the ‘Teatro del Silenzio’ natural amphitheatre and annually performs bel canto concerts of world renown on the stage. Just before Lajatico, in the Terricciola area, is the countryside estate of a noble Pisani family, Villa Gherardi Del Testa Barasaglia. Built in 1660, the residence was the birthplace of Tommaso Gherardi Del Testa, a patriot of the Italian Risorgimento and playwright. Visitors to the Villa can admire the beautiful frescoes on the main ‘piano nobile’ floor, along with stucco work, antique furnishings and trompe-l’œil architectural details.
