Have you ever considered exploring Friuli? We can guarantee it will be full of unexpected surprises. When we think about the entire region, Trieste usually springs to mind first and foremost due to its rich history and famous sights such as Miramare Castle, Piazza dell’Unità d’Italia and the San Giusto Cathedral. It is also best known for its historical cafés, which were so central to European cultural life during the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Then there are the cities of Udine and Gorizia, both compelling for different reasons: the former for its innate elegance and the beauty of its ancient buildings, the latter for its castle and – perhaps most significantly – the pivotal events of its division after the Second World War, when it became an emblematic border city caught between the Western and communist blocs, just like Berlin. Pordenone is often overlooked as a Friulian capital, possibly because it was the last to achieve this status as the head of a province. Despite having a larger population than Gorizia, its size may well contribute to its relative obscurity. Additionally, Pordenone exists in a unique position, almost suspended as it between two regions, bordering Treviso and Veneto. It therefore feels appropriate to discover a city and, more generally, a province that is very dynamic from a cultural point of view (the Pordenonelegge book festival being the most important annual event), one that also has a strong economic presence (this is the second most important province in Italy after Treviso in terms of export value in the wood-furniture sector), and offers a rich social life. So where should we begin?
We have chosen to start our itinerary in Sacile, as it marks the gateway into Friuli by train. Described as the ‘Garden of the Serenissima’ due to the town’s long-standing association with the Republic of Venice, its charming centre has developed along the course of the Livenza River and is well worth visiting for its elegant Venetian architecture, beautifully reflected in the water running through it. You can also explore the Borgo San Gregorio, originally a district of Sacile, with its double row of arcades flanking the street, as well as noble residences in Piazza del Popolo, the Municipal Loggia, San Nicolò Cathedral, the Chapel of Pietà and the 16th-century Palazzo Ragazzoni. Continuing past Fontanafredda will lead you to the outskirts of Pordenone and the municipality of Porcìa, home to our first historical home, Castello di Porcìa. Built for military defence against the frequent barbarian invasions, this Castle has been the permanent residence of the noble Porcìa and Brugnera families for nine centuries. It encompasses a vast agricultural estate of 840 hectares dedicated to cultivating premium grape varieties and other products. Be sure to include a visit to the castle’s historic winery with a wine tasting, followed by a trip to the Azzano Farm, which is owned by the same family.
Pordenone and Porcia have become so closely integrated that they almost form a unified centre, making this our next logical stop. Before exploring Pordenone itself, however, consideration should be given to where the first night should be spent. The most logical and tempting option is to book a room in a historical residence, and we have the perfect place in mind. But first it is necessary to call in at Prata di Pordenone before driving on to the capital. Villa Cavazza Querini is located in the Visinale area, a subdivision of the municipality of Pasiano, and is one of the oldest estates in western Friuli, as it was completed in 1542. This property has been transformed into a B&B, appropriately named ‘Ca’ Settecento’ (Ca is a Venetian abbrevation for casa, aptly describing this atmospheric 18th century house). Poet and journalist Gabriele D’Annunzio was famously a guest at the Villa. After dropping off your luggage, you are free to visit Pordenone’s main sights, including the Cathedral dedicated to San Marco, the Church of San Giorgio and the Civic Museum. A stroll along Corso Vittorio Emanuele II is a must to admire its beautiful buildings: the old Town Hall dating back to the late 1200s with its sixteenth-century astronomical-lunar clock, and the sixteenth-century bridge over the Noncello River. On the food front, we recommend you try Osteria La Ferrata, for two reasons – firstly because of its long-standing reputation since 1899, and secondly for its traditional Friulian dishes, such as the hearty and much beloved Frico dish. For dessert, try Pasticceria Peratoner, where master chocolatier Giuseppe Faggiotto excels in the art of chocolate-making. There are some notable coffee roasteries, like Grosmi, and various goldsmiths and jewellers. If you’re interested in purchasing high-quality knives, head to the nearby town of Maniago, situated at the start of the valley that leads to the emerald of the Friulian Dolomites, Lake Barcis, fondly referred to as the ‘City of Knives’. Here you can visit the Museum of Blacksmiths’ Art and Cutlery or the local Knife Consortium sales point.
Our journey then continues in the direction of Tagliamento, and the river that divides Pordenone from Udine. Before heading south to Morsano, we recommend a detour to Valvasone, included in the circuit of the most beautiful villages in Italy. Its castle, which can be visited by appointment, dates back to the 13th century and has hosted prominent figures, including Popes Gregory XII in 1409 and Pius VI in 1782, as well as Napoleon in March 1797. You should also plan to stop by Cordovado, another of the most beautiful villages in the country, to catch a glimpse of its castle and noble palazzos. Just before the bridge at Tagliamento is Borgo dei Conti della Torre. This 17th-century agricultural estate has been transformed and now offers accommodation with a main villa, a small church, a swimming pool, and outbuildings in the form of an ex-overseer’s gastaldia and a barchessa barn with pillars. The Bed & Breakfast has eleven uniquely themed rooms and can be reserved exclusively for up to 25 people. Close by is the ancient mill of Morsano al Tagliamento.
After crossing the bridge, you will enter the region of Udine and Codroipo, with its Parco delle Risorgive or ‘Park of the Resurgences’, known for its clear waters and old mills like the 15th-century Bert mill, which is still operational and open for visits today. San Martino has the Civic Museum of Vintage Carriages, where some fifty perfectly functioning carriages are preserved, while just down the road is Villa Manin Guerresco, the residence of the final Doge of Venice, and a venue for grand private events and concerts.
History enthusiasts will find this Villa of particular interest as it is the place where Napoleon signed the Treaty of Campoformido in 1797, marking the end of the Republic of Venice. Campoformido is on the very outskirts of Udine, but before entering the region’s capital, follow the road in a northerly fashion for a detour in Fagagna, another of the most beautiful Italian villages, whose claim to fame is its nature oasis, the Quadris Bird Reserve, and its healthy stork population. Back in Udine, dedicate an entire day to discovering the ancient centre, like the Castle Museums, Casa Cavazzini and the vibrant Piazza della Libertà, along with the medieval alleyways and picturesque canals leading to Piazza Matteotti. Don’t forget to sample the excellent pastries at Caffè Beltrame. For lunch, you can opt for a traditional osteria like La Ciacarade, which opened in 1965, or Al Fogolar at the Hotel Là di Moret. For a remarkable gourmet experience, reserve at Agli Amici in Godia, run by Scarello siblings Emanuele (chef) and Michela (sommelier), who have earned two Michelin stars, not only in Udine but also at their second restaurant opened in Rovinj, Croatia.
Wrap up your tour in style by leaving Udine to unveil two final historical residences. Villa de Claricini Dornpacher is twenty minutes away by car and is located in Moimacco on the way to Cividale. It was constructed in the mid-17th century by the de Claricini Dornpacher family. Since 1971, it has served as the headquarters for a foundation established by Countess Giuditta de Claricini, the villa’s last owner, aimed at preserving its lengthy legacy and promoting cultural studies, initiatives and events. Available for private event rentals, the estate features a lovely Italian garden, developed in the early 1900s, and both the garden and Villa are open for visits with prior online booking. Cividale is a charming town on the Natisone River, which acts as the starting point for the UNESCO itinerary highlighting the Lombard ‘Places of the Power’ sites in Italy. Key attractions include the National Archaeological Museum, the Christian Museum containing the Duomo’s treasures, the Lombard Temple and the mysterious Celtic Hypogeum. Lastly, we suggest you treat yourself and spend a day (or longer) at one of the Case-Vacanza Carvalho de Moraes de Puppi, which consist of three rustic villas that have been part of the de Puppi family’s estate since the 1500s, and where you can swim in the outdoor pool during the warmer months.
