The homeland of Shakespeare’s Juliet, the largest lake in Italy and the world-famous Veneto region with its excellent red wines: these are three compelling reasons why you should spend at least a long weekend discovering our Veronese itinerary – but beware! managing your time and planning will be crucial over these three days, because there is so much to do and see. If you know you are likely get caught up in admiring the stunning views of the Benaco (the ancient name for Lake Garda), window shopping in Verona, or indulging in extra wine tastings at the wineries of Valpolicella or Valpantena – all superbly equipped for wine tourism – you may well find that three days simply aren’t enough and may decide to extend your stay to a full week. In terms of transportation, driving is the obvious option, but you might consider being a bit adventurous and opting for cycling, as the whole area has great bike paths. For the truly adventurous, trekking is also a possibility, as the entire route takes around fifteen hours in total, which can be comfortably spread over several days.
The starting point is Lake Garda and the town named Garda, where Villa Albertini, our first historical residence, is located. The only section of the estate that is open to the public is its grand park, which was designed by architect Francesco Ronzani and extends across the hillside behind the Villa. This scenic park features centuries-old trees, greenhouses, chalets, towers, viewpoints, fountains and cascades fed by a pond at the highest point. After exploring the park, take a leisurely stroll along the lakeside. If you have chosen the trekking option, start the beauteous hike to Bardolino, the second stop on our tour. If you are in a car, take the road up to Madonna del Pign for a picturesque view perfect for a photo opportunity.
Bardolino marks the first wine appellation of our journey, though it will certainly not be the last! If you are interested in visiting a popular, well-organised Wine Museum, head to the Zeni winery on Via Costabella, which showcases objects that have been on display since 1991 and an olfactory gallery. Another essential locality on our Garda tour is the charming village of Lazise, with the commanding Scaliger Castle presiding over the lake. We suggest stopping for a meal at Alla Grotta, a restaurant with an adjoining hotel that has been serving fish from the lake since 1951. Alternatively, for a dining experience overlooking the old port, Taverna da Oreste offers excellent fish dishes.
Bidding farewell to Lake Garda, continue on the road toward Pastrengo, a town whose name is linked to a victorious battle during the First War of Independence, although it ultimately had little impact on the Savoy army’s fight against the Austrian Empire. Just outside Pastrengo, you will find Villa Padovani, which houses the notable Corte dei Frati or ‘Friar’s Court’. Over the course of its history, this site has been a place of defence and spiritual solace and played a significant role in healing and restoring the family’s fortunes. We recommend booking at least one night in one of the suites offered by the Padovani family to combine the experience of staying in a historic home with the pleasure of taking advantage of the wellness centre at the Boffenigo Panorama & Experience Hotel, owned by the same family, in Costermano sul Garda. With regard to dining, you can either choose the restaurant in the hotel or explore various dining options in the centre of Pastrengo, such as the Ristorante Stella d’Italia, which has been serving guests since 1875.
The following day is devoted to travelling from Valpolicella to Verona. After crossing the Adige River near Villa Padovani, you will officially enter the Valpolicella region and Sant’Ambrogio. This area is one of the five municipalities in Valpolicella, along with Fumane, Marano di Valpolicella, Negrar and San Pietro in Cariano, that can claim the title of ‘Valpolicella Classica’. Your time here will depend entirely on your passion for wine, as there are a great many wineries to be explored. The wines promoted and protected by the Valpolicella Consortium enjoy fame and prestige all over the world and include Valpolicella Classico and Superiore, Ripasso and Amarone, as well as the esteemed Recioto, a noble wine that embodies the region’s history and continues to be highly regarded as a contemplative wine, ideal for pairing with special occasion desserts. If time is of the essence, it may be best to focus on two notable time-honoured wineries. The first is at Villa Serego Alighieri in Sant’Ambrogio di Valpolicella, an estate that has belonged to the descendants of Dante Alighieri since the 14th century. Dante’s son, Pietro Alighieri, purchased Casal dei Ronchi in 1353, a large 120-hectare vineyard in the heart of historic Valpolicella, which is still cultivated with vines today. The Alighieri family continues to oversee its operation, with wines under the Serego Alighieri label now part of the Masi Agricola group, its production earning prestigious international awards, including a top-10 ranking by Wine Spectator for its Amarone Vaio Armaron 2008 vintage. To taste a comprehensive selection of the region’s finest wines, visit the Enoteca della Valpolicella in Fumane or the Antica Bottega del Vino in Verona, regarded as one of the world’s top ten wine temples, now run by the Famiglie Storiche association of leading local wine producers.
On the way to Verona, you will encounter another historic wine-related residence, Villa Betteloni, which dates back to the 14th century and has been owned by the Betteloni family since 1665. This estate boasts a 20,000-square-metre park, a library containing around 5,000 volumes and 30,000 square metres of vineyards. The Villa is poetic in every sense, having hosted such notable literary figures as Aleardi and Carducci, who were guests of Betteloni family members Cesare, Vittorio and Gianfranco, themselves esteemed writers and poets. The next stop is the 16th-century agritourism and relais hotel Villa Sagramoso Sacchetti, which is today managed by sisters Chiarastella and Ludovica Sagramoso Sacchetti. This property features cypress trees, vineyards and olive groves, and provides guests with serene countryside accommodation, the icing on the cake being its splendid swimming pool.
Approaching Verona along the Adige River’s left bank, you will drive past Signorvino, a wine venture by hosiery and lingerie entrepreneur Sandro Veronesi, which has expanded operations from Romeo and Juliet’s city to other parts of Italy and Europe, including a recent opening in Paris. Before exploring Verona, it’s well worth taking a short detour to the Borgo Trento hill, north of the Adige, to discover Villa Ambrosetti. Restored in 2017 and converted into a relais, it provides a winning alternative for lodging near but not inside the city, in a lovely hillside setting. The Villa has five rooms and two suites, named after watercolour paintings of the flowers in the garden.
In Verona, plan to concentrate on the mandatory landmarks: Piazza Bra at its heart, with the remarkably well-preserved Arena, considering its two thousand years of history, still today a major venue for both the summer opera season and contemporary music events; Juliet’s House, practically a place of pilgrimage for romantics; the beautiful squares of Piazza delle Erbe and Piazza dei Signori; the most important churches, such as the Cathedral and San Zeno; the Palazzo della Ragione, with its famous red marble staircase, another outstanding landmark that is appreciated the world over; the medieval Castelvecchio fortress, now home to the Civic Museum, and the impressive 14th-century Scaliger Bridge. Take the Castel San Pietro funicular for the incredible sunset view from the castle overlooking Ponte Pietra, the Adige River and the old town. In the district of Veronetta, near the base of the castle, you will see a Roman Theatre dating from the 1st century BC, used as a stage for summer concerts and performances, as well as Giardino Giusti, one of the most exceptional examples of an Italian garden, which exhibits 16th-century design elements and a frescoed Palazzo by Francesco Lorenzi, a student of Giambattista Tiepolo. The Palazzo also conserves the collection of ancient artifacts known as the ‘Collezione Molin Giusti’.
The gastronomic scene is also excellent, from the fine cuisine to be had at Giancarlo Perbellini’s new location in the historic ‘12 Apostoli’ restaurant, to the very special pizzas dreamed up by Renato Bosco at Saporè Downtown, or the authentic Neapolitan fare by Guglielmo and Enrico Vuolo, not to mention speciality Veronese dishes like boiled meat with its distinctive pearà sauce, which the locals in the know love to eat at Locanda di Castelvecchio, and traditional patisseries like Flego and Tomasi.
Departing from Verona, travel onwards to the Valpantena region, another prominent area for Valpolicella, Ripasso and Amarone wines. Our destination is Villa Ca’ Vendri, a 16th-century estate attributed to the architect Sanmicheli. This venue is highly sought after for private events and ceremonies, thanks to the splendour of its elegant loggia, expansive park and a 300-metre-long avenue lined with cypress trees. The Villa is open for tours and, on request, overnight stays in rooms reserved for guests, who also have access to a practice golf course. A short drive away, in Trezzolano, is our final stop: Villa Ridolfi, which includes the original tower and an adjacent farmhouse, where you can admire a secular cypress tree planted around 1492, fondly referred to as ‘Colombo’. The tower houses a wine cellar and offers accommodation in one of its four comfortable suites.
