One of the best known and most beloved cities of the Piedmont region is its stunning capital, Turin, famed for its historic centre and glorious heritage, with castles dotted around in what was formerly the place of predilection of the Savoy royal family, as well as gently undulating landscapes and culinary delights to be found in the Langhe area, not to mention the imposing outlines of the Alps and the long-standing wine culture across the whole Apennine region, also including Monferrato and Roero and extending to Alessandria. The primary focus of this itinerary, however, is to go off the beaten track and visit the north-eastern area, which is less frequented by tourists and is full of unexpected attractions, both in terms of the scenery, with its hills and large lakes, and in terms of its historical and cultural treasures. In addition, this area has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage site due to the presence of the ‘Sacri Monti’, which literally means ‘Sacred Mountains’. These are architectural complexes appearing on hill summits which feature a series of chapels adorned with paintings and sculptures depicting the life of Christ, Mary and the Saints, describing the mysteries of the Rosary. There are nine Sacri Monti in total, and seven of these are located in Piedmont (the other two are to be found in neighbouring Lombardy). Starting from the ancient homestead of Italy’s wool capital, Biella, join us on a tour that includes five of the most picturesque Sacred Mountains as part of our itinerary.
We begin our journey at the religious heart of Biella, clustered around the Cathedral of Santo Stefano with its bell tower and the Baptistery of Saint John the Baptist. The latter is considered by the people of Biella to be one of the city’s most important monuments due to the presence of early 14th-century frescoes attributed to the anonymous Italian painter known as the Maestro di Oropa, and a bas-relief on the main portal dating back to Roman times. A unique feature of this Baptistery is that it was built primarily using reclaimed bricks. A tour of Biella would not be complete without a visit to its two principal museums, one connected to its prominent 20th-century industry and the other showcasing the collection of works by one of Europe’s greatest 20th-century artists.
Our first stop is at the Fila Foundation Museum, often recognised for its core brand, which first made its mark on the athletic textile market and was adopted by top tennis players such as Bjorn Borg in the 1970s, before later becoming popular in the USA with sneaker collections favoured by the African American community. Strolling around this museum is free of charge, although you do need to reserve in advance. For contemporary art enthusiasts, the name of Michelangelo Pistoletto needs no introduction: this artist from Biella has established his creative workshop, named the Cittadellarte-Pistoletto Foundation, in an old, repurposed woollen mill. This site also houses a permanent collection that can be visited with a guided tour lasting approximately ninety minutes. If this wasn’t enough to persuade you to spend more time in Biella than you had perhaps originally planned, there is so much more to discover in both the upper town around the main street of Corso del Piazzo and in the lower town, where beer enthusiasts should make a beeline for the home of Italy’s oldest brewery, founded in 1846, appropriately named the ‘Museum of Menabrea Beer and Botalla Cheese’, otherwise known as the ‘MeBo Museum’. The combination of these two outstanding products has resulted in the invention of a unique brand of cheese flavoured with Menabrea beer, entitled ‘Sbirro’. As you would imagine, taking a guided tour here naturally includes a tasting of various types of cheese, accompanied by fresh draughts of beer!
After all these cultural excursions, we would recommend you explore the upper town, starting at Piazza Cisterna. The first historical residence on our itinerary is Palazzo La Marmora, the house-museum we have chosen as the ideal location to reserve for a two-night stay (or longer). The ‘Lo Stalliere’, ‘Il Cocchiere’ and ‘Il Fienile’ apartments – their names inspired by the grooms, coachmen and barns of times gone by – all overlook one of the Palazzo’s five courtyards. This accommodation provides an oasis of peace in the ancient heart of Biella and offers reserved car access and a covered car park. For eight centuries, the Palazzo has been the home of the Ferrero della Marmora Marchesi, now Mori Ubaldini degli Alberti La Marmora, and it has preserved its distinctive architecture as well as furniture, paintings and archives chronicling the stories, art and customs of the different generations of the family living there. There is a magnificent two-hundred-year-old Ficus repens climbing fig tree in the winter garden, which covers an entire wall. We have suggested you stay at least two nights at Palazzo La Marmora in Biella, given its convenient location to the proposed visits to two other must-visit attractions a short drive away. The first is the Sacro Monte di Oropa, a name that is instantly recognisable to cycling fans as it is the site of the uphill finish of several stages of the Giro d’Italia bicycle race, and is particularly memorable for Marco Pantani’s victory in 1999. However, its prime claim to fame is its basilica and the dark wood pigmented statue of the ‘Madonna Nera’. The sculpture was venerated by the locals, who prayed to it during the devastating plague of the 1600s. It is the most famous pilgrimage site in Piedmont and is still one of Italy’s key spiritual destinations. Our next port of call is a historic winery close to Biella: the Castello di Montecavallo in Vigliano Biellese. Built in the neo-Gothic style in 1830 by Filiberto Avogadro on the remains of a fortified house from the 1200s, the Castle offers an excellent alternative for those who prefer a countryside setting to spending time in the city. It provides charming rooms in a guesthouse below the tower, decorated with period furnishings, with access to a park and garden in front of the chapel. A tour of the wine cellars, which successfully combine old traditions with modern techniques, is a must. It concludes with a tasting of local wines, including Cajanto and Indero. Before leaving Biella, be sure to purchase some delicious Canestrelli cookies from one of the excellent pastry shops, such as Coggiola or Jeantet. Next, we’ll continue our journey to explore new destinations and more examples of the Sacri Monti. Heading northeast, the nearest sites are Varallo in Val Sesia and Orta, perched above the lake of the same name.
By taking a short detour to the south of Biella, you will be able to take a look at our third historical residence: the Castello di Massazza. Throughout its long history—its origins date back to the year 1000—the Castle has long served as a strategic fortification on the route between Turin and Milan. Since 1978, the property has been owned by the Cavallari family, who are meticulously restoring it for hospitality purposes and have already created a theatre-arena within its walls. The Castle is available for tours by appointment and hosts private events in a truly unique setting. Near Massazza, the Baragge Nature Reserve and the Ricetto di Candelo, one of the best-preserved fortified structures in Piedmont, are both well worth a visit. Continuing on towards Borgosesia, you will pass through Gattinara, another name that is very well-known to wine enthusiasts, before ascending the valley to reach the Sacro Monte di Varallo. The next leg of the journey from the Sesia Valley to Lake Orta is via secondary road Provinciale 76, which passes Gozzano, the gateway to the area often dubbed as the “lake district”. After exploring the charming town of Orta San Giulio—where you can indulge in a three-star Michelin meal at Villa Crespi, helmed by celebrity chef Antonino Cannavacciuolo—and of course admiring the ‘Sacro Monte’ above Lake Orta, our route takes us to Castello dal Pozzo, the fourth residence on our itinerary. Located a short distance from Lago Maggiore, this splendid resort features 45 suites and a gourmet restaurant, making it an ideal and strategic choice for visits to the lake, while spending the evenings in an atmosphere of complete quiet and relaxation.
At this point, you can follow one of two options to reach Isola Bella: either take the E62 motorway or follow the scenic route along the shores of Lake Maggiore. We strongly recommend the second solution. This will allow you to stop by the towering 35-metre-tall Colossus of San Carlo Borromeo near Arona and enjoy the lake views from Lesa, Belgirate and Stresa. Park in Stresa and take a boat to Isola Bella, the most famous of the Borromean Islands. This small island was originally inhabited by fishermen, and only had two small churches and a few vegetable gardens until 1630, when the Borromeo family began constructing the Palazzo and gardens that are so admired by people coming from all quarters of the world today. The breath-taking complex is open to visitors, and it is even possible to stay in one of the ancient fishermen’s houses that have been converted into apartments, accommodating up to eight people and offering all modern comforts. Stresa is the final stop of our itinerary, but it is also an excellent base for visiting two more Sacri Monti in Alto Piemonte: the Sacro Monte Calvario or ‘Sacred Mount Cavalry’ of Domodossola, and the Sacred Mountain in Ghiffa, which you will encounter as you continue along the lake past the historic centres of Verbania and Intra.
