We start this adventure with a premise that may disappoint those already dreaming of spending a seaside holiday in a historical residence, especially given that the sea in this part of Italy, the subject of our itinerary, is truly among the most stunning in the whole country: in Salento, the main noble estates are rather to be found inland, in safer locations than the coastline, which was fortified with fortresses and watchtowers in the past due to the constant threat of Saracen pirates, and were not designed as vacation homes or country palazzos. Landowners, understandably, chose the relative safety of the hinterland, where they could oversee their properties and crops, rather than enjoy the beauty of the two seas that embrace either side of this land situated at the southernmost tip of Puglia, often referred to as the ‘Heel of Italy’. Beach tourism may be a comparatively new and lucrative trend today, but in the past, the priority was keeping safe and stockpiling provisions to be able to survive the harsh winter months, battered by the strong winds and perennially exposed to the risk of enemy invasion. One of the more positive aspects of this ‘entroterrizzazione’ or inland shift of all the noble estates, however, was the creation of large parks and gardens, which are key features of the rural farmhouse masserias and noble palazzos still existing in Lower Salento.
This trip will take you about one or at most two days should you choose to focus solely on the historical residences. Alternatively, you could extend your stay to a week or more if you decide to visit in the summer and complement your discovery of Salento’s palazzos with an exploration of the many incredibly beautiful beaches and notable time-honoured centres here. In times of yore, this region was mainly frequented by those embarking on pilgrimages to the Holy Land, departing from Otranto or Leuca. Our itinerary takes the form of an inverted triangle with its base connecting two main centres of this territory, namely Gallipoli and Otranto, and its southern point reaching the Sanctuary of Santa Maria de Finibus Terrae and the tip of Santa Maria di Leuca.
We begin our excursion in Otranto, Italy’s easternmost town, where you can visit the majestic Aragonese Castle, built at the end of the 15th century and so perfectly preserved that its rooms are still used to host exhibitions and events. The 11th-century Cathedral is also well worth seeing, with its mosaic floors and the Chapel of the Martyrs. Some 800 skulls are displayed in the church, commemorating the massacre by the Turks in 1480 of many of the inhabitants of Otranto who had refused to renounce their faith during the foreign invasion. If you can resist the temptation of having a swim at Baia dei Turchi, near the Alimini lakes, or spending a day at the famous Lido La Castellana, owned by the Capasa family who are prominent in the fashion industry, then the time has come to visit the first historical residence. This is the Castello di Casamassella, located just 4 km from the heart of Otranto and originating from the 13th century. Besides its impressive architecture, it is the Mediterranean garden that has significantly contributed to the reputation of this ancient fortress, filled with century-old trees and flowering plants enveloping the colonnades. The garden contains precious citrus trees, cypresses, ancient roses, fine vines, colourful bougainvillea, palm trees and even examples of the rare Vallonea oak tree. Guests can stay at Casamassella in one of six available suites, providing the perfect opportunity to further explore Otranto and take a detour to the renowned Deer Cave of Porto Badisco. This site, the largest Neolithic pictorial complex in Europe, is also legendary for being the landing place of Aeneas after he fled Troy before he went on to found Rome.
Continuing from Porto Badisco along the coast, there are several natural wonders to admire in addition to the views of the Adriatic after you pass Santa Cesarea Terme, which include: the miraculous Grotta Zinzulusa, a cave near Castro Marina, which takes about half an hour to visit; the Salento fjord named Cala dell’Acquaviva, famed for the sea’s unique, vibrant palette of colours; and finally, as we approach the Capo di Leuca, the equally celebrated Ciolo, a small fjord crossed by a bridge where passersby invariably stop for the obligatory photo opportunity. The centre of Castro also features an Aragonese castle complete with an archaeological museum, as well as several caves and watchtowers. Tradition has it that Saint Peter landed where the Sanctuary of Santa Maria de Finibus Terrae stands, on his way to Rome.
After a stop in the now thriving tourist destination of Santa Maria di Leuca, our travels take us slightly inland towards Alessano, home to our second historical residence in Lower Salento, the Ducal Palace of the Sangiovanni family, which can be visited by appointment. Palazzo Ducale di Alessano, built in 1492, was once owned by families such as the Aragonas and the Gonzagas. Today, the Sangiovanni family is delighted to welcome guests and proposes private events, cooking classes and even pizzica dance lessons in the garden, adding further value to this residence which is characterised by a grand hall of monumental proportions (10x10x10 metres).
At this juncture, we suggest you continue along the Ionian coastline at a leisurely pace. You will come upon views of some of Salento’s most famous beaches, such as the celebrated ‘Maldives’ of Marina di Pescoluse, Marina di Salve, the lagoon area separating Lido Marino from Torre Mozza, and the locality of Torre San Giovanni. We then head inland again towards Racale to visit a historical residence that offers lodging and thus serves as a perfect midpoint solution for accommodation between Leuca and Gallipoli. Palazzo Briganti contains an indoor pool and wellness centre (positioned in the caves below the hotel) and is only a short distance away from the beaches of the Ionian coast. The ground floor of Palazzo Briganti hosts the L’Acchiatura restaurant, a former convent which is mentioned in the Michelin guide – there’s nowhere better to savour some delightful Salento cuisine.
Our next destination is the ancestral heart of Gallipoli, the pearl of the Ionian Salento. It is worth dedicating at least a couple of hours to visit its churches (particularly the Basilica of Sant’Agata), the Angevin Castle and the Greek Fountain. Afterwards, take a stroll through the port and its quaint alleys, or simply sit and gaze at the sunset from the walls of the fortified city. We would recommend you aim to come outside peak seasons, especially in summer, avoiding weekends and the month of August, when parking can be extremely challenging as Gallipoli is literally inundated with tourists.
After Gallipoli, our itinerary leads you back towards the starting point. As you complete the loop – or more precisely, triangle – you will have the opportunity to visit two other magnificent Salento residences, both ducal palaces. The first, located in Scorrano, is Palazzo Ducale Guarini, which offers accommodation for stays of at least one week’s duration. The Guarini family has resided here for four generations, and the property houses their collections of carriages, harnesses, books, paintings, fine wines, cars, and both ancient and modern musical instruments. The Palazzo is also notable for its age-old garden filled with ancient plants, exotic species, citrus groves, rose gardens and aromatic herbs. Even if you have not reserved here, it is possible to visit the mansion and its cellars, where the Guarini family has been producing wine for almost a thousand years. Ceramic workshops are also available, accompanied by the current owner of the castle, Lucia Guarini, who is a skilled ceramist.
Why not include a break in Maglie after waving goodbye to Scorrano – not just to see its charming historic centre complete with noble palazzos and important churches like the Cathedral of San Nicola, but also for rather more delectable reasons! Purchase some bars of chocolate from iconic Italian company Maglio’s factory shop, where they have been making chocolate since 1875. The same city also provides a clue to what happens in one of Italy’s best known pasta factories: Benedetto Cavalieri has been in operation since 1818. Hat aficionados should definitely take a tour to n° 7, Via Pisanelli and the Doria 1905 boutique. As well as developing its own line, this Maglie-based hat-making company collaborates with top luxury brands, creating 100% Made in Italy collections.
Another typical traditional production in Salento is shoes, with the focus in recent years being placed on producing ranges of sneakers. Hand-distressed Golden Goose sneakers, which can be purchased almost everywhere, are produced in nearby Casarano, for example, but you can also find manufacturers specialising in women’s footwear, such as Elata, which was founded in 1920 and is still active in Casarano. Last but not least, we could not finish without including a few culinary suggestions. Lovers of Italian trattorias offering traditional cuisine will definitely find what they are looking for at Iolanda in Lucugnano. Enjoy some homemade orecchiette pasta served with horse meat to start, followed by ‘gnummaredd’ (lamb rolls), and finish your meal with cream-filled pasticciotto. Excellent alternatives are ‘La Grande Abbuffata’ in Acquarica del Capo and ‘Rua de li Travaj’ in Patù. Salento cuisine is typically focused on land-based ingredients, but you can still find excellent seafood along the coast, for example at Taverna del Porto in Tricase, which has received the Slow Food certification, or at Ristorante Lo Scalo, which is in Ciolo. Our final recommendation: there are a number of skilled artisans based in Acquarica del Capo, who create hand-crafted basketry using the age-old rush-weaving techniques of the ‘Spurtari’ of Salento, preserving ancient traditions in working with rushes. Over and out!